Alpha- and Beta-Hydroxy Acids, also known as AHA and BHA exfoliants, are the two products that have totally blown me away in the last few years. I keep banging on about them to anyone willing to listen, as they have done amazing things for my skin and I believe, everyone from teenagers to people with mature skin would benefit from using them.
The main difference between them and standard abrasive exfoliants is, that they are applied on clean skin and left on to do their thing for several hours, in the same way you apply your moisturiser. You can use them both in the morning and in the evening, or once a day. They come in liquid, gel and lotion forms depending on your skin type.
AHA exfoliants are suitable for dry sun-damaged skin types, and BHA exfoliants are great for acne-prone oilier skin types, which struggle with blackheads, blemishes and white spots. AHA exfoliants contain glycolic acid and sit on the surface of the skin to help tackle unevenness, pigmentation and fine lines, as well as reveal new fresher skin. BHA exfoliants contain salicylic acid which is the only skincare ingredient able to penetrate into the pores and clean blemishes and blackheads from the inside out. Both exfoliants are based on fruit acid derivatives and promote collagen production and skin regeneration. They could be used in conjunction or alone, depending on your skin type and concerns.
I tend to alternate between using an AHA and BHA exfoliant once a day most days. I prefer to use them at night underneath my night serum. Since I started using them around 3 years ago, my skin has has gradually calmed down and become more even-toned and balanced. To start with I used them every day, but over time I now need to use them no more than 3-4 days a week. As everyone's skin is unique, it takes a bit of experimenting to find your perfect routine.
One thing to keep in mind is that these types of exfoliants require an SPF used over them, should you want to apply them in the morning.
My top picks are:
- Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 1% BHA Gel
- Paula's Choice RESIST Weekly Resurfacing Treatment with 10% Alpha Hydroxy Acid
You may notice that more and more skincare companies are introducing AHA and BHA exfoliants in their ranges. Please be aware that salicylic acid in wash-off type exfoliants will simply not get the chance to do its job as it needs to stay on the skin for a period of time, hence I would not recommend using those. Also, not all exfoliants of this class are formulated at the effective range pH range. Hence the reason why both options above are from Paula's Choice range which are by far the best formulated and effective ones currently available. The bottles they come in will last you for 1 year each, if used regularly.
There is a body care lotion in the same class, that I have been using for couple of years now and will not be without. It's the Palmer's Cocoa Butter Formula Anti-Aging Smoothing Lotion, which contains both AHA and BHA exfoliants, as well as Vitamin E and shea butter. Sold for a mere £4.09 in Boots and Superdrug, it is an absolute steal of a product that helps tackle keratosis pilaris - the red bumpy skin or the tops of the arms and legs many people get, and reveal soother and more even-toned skin. Due to the combination of moisturising and exfoliating properties, it is a great all-in-one product.
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